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Chaumet is not a watch maker that I was familiar with until quite recently. It is a Paris based company, which utilizes Swiss movements but in French designed cases and it is a wonderful marriage.

 

It does not take long to get a little bored with the usual cast of high-end watches like Rolex or Patek and sometimes horrified with the products of Hublot and Richard Mille.

Arguably, Rolex are immediately recognizable but then so are the myriad of Rolex imposters so, damn. No sir it is not a submariner, it’s a limited-edition number 6543 of nine hundred and thirty thousand Subby by Daniel Wigersbottom, and expensive, 120 bucks at Costco.

 

Patek can be a little stuffy and as much as I like them, they are pricey, and with that often not deserving of their extreme price because the watches are so simple. Stop screaming at me, I know, but really 80 grand for a watch (Nautilus for instance) that just tells time and is not all that inspired.

 

The other side of that, Richard Mille and Hublot take the other extreme. They can be huge money and are certainly interesting to look at but, this is a big but, it is hard to tell time with them and I think that it would not take long to get enough of a Richard Mille that it would end up living most of its life in the drawer (or safety deposit box). Plus, if you are wearing one and fall into a pond, your drowning, they are that heavy.

 

In the same vein I have a Frank Mueller Conquistador (Love Franck Mueller, sorry) which when I got it I thought was delightful. Now it just takes up room in the watch box because it is too heavy and too bloody big to wear every day and honestly, the face that I thought fresh at first has rapidly soured with daily exposure. A shame really.

 

Now this Chaumet is neither too ostentatious, too heavy, too blingy or too ordinary.

It strikes a marvelous balance of a 38mm case which is not too big to be comfortable and not too small to go unnoticed.

 

It has a display back that I love because it give us an intimate look into the watch makes art.

I always thought the reverse snobbery of Rolex hiding their exquisite movements was, well a bit odd.

But then a watch company that advertises the hell out watches that you can’t go out and buy unless you are anointed, is a little odd.

 

The Chaumet has three complications. Enough to display competence but not too many to become confusing or require a ninety page instruction book. (My Breitling Navitimer I have to relearn every time I wear it. Fortunately, the manual is online)

 

One of the complications is a power reserve, which I love. The other a seconds dial and date of course.

The face has two colours which are carried into a strap on the original striped watchband and the stripe finds its way onto the watch face in black relief.

It has to be almost impossible to be both fresh and tasteful on a watch face, but this is and it is not at all stodgy.

It is just plain elegant.

 

Oh, and did I mention that this is one (number 94) of just one hundred watches. Bit more exclusive than a GMT Master II.

 

So, how do you know this is a special watch? Well, mainly by first looking at it and secondly, its presence on my desk coerced me into trolling the entire watch industry, even watches I love dearly, so there is that. Bloody French.

 

Cheers.

Chaumet Dandy Reserve De Marche 18K White Gold Stem Wind Wristwatch 94/100

SKU: 00159
$14,900.00 Regular Price
$11,920.00Sale Price
  • Brand: Chaumet

    Model Name: Dandy Reserve De Marche

    Model Number: W11188-25A

    Bezel Material: 18K White Gold

    Case Material: 18K White Gold

    Caseback Material: 18K White Gold

    Movement: Chaumet Cal. CP12V-I, 32 Jewels

    Functions: Date WIndow, Subdial

    Clasp Style: Buckle

    Case to Case (mm): 38

    Lug to Lug (mm): 44

    Total Length: 9.25"

    Bracelet/Fob Material: Leather

    Bracelet/Fob Syle: Strap

    Total Weight (grams): 83.5

  • Limited edition of 100 pieces

    Small seconds subdial

    Power reserve indicator

    Signed buckle and strap

    Exhibition case back

     

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